Pre-Fall fashion collection 2010 of Alberta Ferretti at New York fashion show

Pre-Fall fashion collection 2010 of Alberta Ferretti at New York fashion show: Alberta Ferretti may be the go-to designer for pretty chiffon gowns, but she injected some edge into her signature feminine silhouettes in her new pre-fall collection. A strong Helmut Newton girl—that perennial fashion inspiration—was the starting point, evident in a dark, moody palette that included black leather skirts, jackets, and body-hugging dresses. Ferretti even played with chains, stringing them like tassels across the shoulders of merino sweaters and a ruched jersey number. When a sheer blouse did pop up, it was paired with a structured charcoal wool pencil skirt. Ironically, fashion as a whole may be moving away from the hard-edged look, but in Ferretti’s case, the juxtaposition of soft and strong gave her latest effort a welcome depth. We can’t all be actresses with red-carpet appearances every night.

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Fall fashion collection 2010 of Versace at Milan fashion show

Fall fashion collection 2010 of Versace at Milan fashion show: Donatella Versace’s Fall collection took a very different route from the pastel-colored goddess drapery that looked so pitch-perfect and confident in last Spring’s drop-dead glorious incarnation. This time, maybe in reaction to general fashion talk about discretion, minimalism, pragmatic daywear, and longer lengths, she switched to dealing with tailoring.

In the house of Versace, that’s a trickier proposition, and now that body-con feels like it’s on the way out, she committed herself to a tough task.

Her solution? Slicing and dicing fabric in geometric, asymmetric planes; zippering the pieces together; and coming up with half-short, half-long skirt lengths. It had the feel of an experiment only half realized, because before we were very far into the show, Versace had switched to pants in biker mode, and then into the familiar house territory of short-and-tight dresses. Along the way, there were great jackets and even a camel coat. Nevertheless, those aren’t really the kind of visuals to get the adrenaline pumping at Versace. Even in times when all the fashion chat is about calming down and pulling back, there’s still plenty of room for designers whose natural instinct is to fly in the opposite direction.

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Fall fashion 2010 collection’s Chanel at Paris fashion shows

Fall fashion 2010 collection’s Chanel at Paris fashion shows: Freja Beha Erichsen and three bears on an ice floe. This was the arctic scene at Chanel, where giant chunks of bona fide iceberg, specially transported from Scandinavia, formed the frozen landscape around which models solemnly splashed through a sea of ‘berg-melt in shaggy snow boots with ice-block heels.

The Karl conceit of the season, no surprises, was an in-every-way extravagant play on Coco in cold weather. Using more fur than he’d even flung at Fendi—the twist being that here the fur was fake—Lagerfeld steered this collection nearer to couture than ready-to-wear than ever. Fur was woven into brown tweeds; formed deep pelmets on the lower half of leather jackets; became almost igloo-shaped capes, bonnets, even—for goodness’ sake—furry trousers. Meanwhile, the suit and coat combinations also had a level of lavish elaboration usually reserved for haute eveningwear. Fur-fringed embroideries and ice jewelry conspired to create intensely worked ruffled and beaded silhouettes that glinted with rock-crystal neckpieces and fistfuls of rings. Somewhere in there, a flash of translucent silver seemed to be a clutch in which the quilting of the CC classic bag had been frozen into the likeness of a refrigerator ice cube tray.
It was a lucky stroke that the weather outside had kindly assisted Chanel in whipping subzero winds around the Grand Palais while this display was going on. Since humans are suggestible, it took only the merest suspension of disbelief to imagine this collection hitting the mark next fall, despite the fact that it will start to be delivered in July—and who knows in which century we’ll have another winter like this one? Nevertheless, putting global warming and the melting of ice caps both center stage and on the back burner (as it were), this show swept the audience along as they were treated to such amusements as seeing Karl Lagerfeld’s favorite, Baptiste Giabiconi, swagger out of an ice cave in a full-length polar bear coat.

It wasn’t all played for laughs. Within the context of a season of innovative knitwear, Chanel’s was some of the most outstanding. A group of three short angora sweater dresses, tinted iceberg blue in the center, was an amazing follow-up from something Lagerfeld did with dégradé pastel embroidery in couture. One gray and black cardigan coat was knitted in a bubbly grid to mimic a down-filled puffer. And the finale was given to a wedding dress knitted in silk tulle ribbon to resemble Chanel’s bouclé tweed, forming a tight-fitting sweater in the body and then sweeping away in flounces in back. The bride—Freja, again—dangled an ice-block purse on a fur-woven Chanel chain.

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